It is with great pleasure that we had the chance to meet Mr Eddy Blanchet, perfumer and co-founder of the ‘Atelier Maître Parfumeur’. He shares with us his passion. A big thank-you !
How was born the brand Atelier Maître Parfumeur?
The brand Atelier Maître Parfumeur was born from a collaboration with my teacher friends perfumers Nicolas de Barry and Jean Paul Millet Lage. We wanted to create a true creative artisan workshop of perfumes in the heart of Paris.
We desire to be free of traditional perfumery, has become too impersonal. This is why we wanted to offer an intimate perfume, more confidential and authentic, offering direction and quality.
Beyond simply opening a design studio, we wanted to bring all the brands that made the great French tradition of perfume.
Our Atelier Maitre Parfumeur therefore was born in Paris, at a time when perfumes and traditional perfumers have lost their luster but also face the power of Big Luxury Homes whose heart profession is not perfumery. Faced with the forgetting of these prestigious perfume houses, we wanted to put them in the spotlight by creating the first concept olfactory store dedicated to the history of perfume and the ancestral tradition of the perfume art without a museum but a living and attractive tradition. Within the Atelier Maitre Parfumeur, we offer excellence perfume in its most luxurious expression, through olfactory emotions, noble and natural ingredients and authenticity of the found fragrance. We select the most prestigious French perfume houses collections fragrances loaded with meaning and history.
What were the motivations that led you to launch yourself in perfume?
My story and my family helped me to form an international outlook and an olfactory heritage built in France and around the Mediterranean. I compose with my garden flowers memories of my childhood home in the countryside, iodine spray of Brittany seaside property of a family where I was spending his vacation, fruity and aromatic sun Lebanon where I lived for several years.
Then my business studies led me to collaborate with the great names of the perfume industry where I made my learning the trade and marketing. Quickly seduced by the elusive mystery of smell, daily contact perfumers have created in me a desire to create. Rather than get into this rat race to create – while about 1,600 fragrances are launched every year – I could not resist the urge to resurrect perfumes of the past, combining this thunderbolt for olfaction and my passion for history.
I acquired my olfactory training, alongside a grand master French perfumer Nicolas de Barry, before perfecting my historical knowledge of the beauty at the Louvre School and the Royal Academy of Belgium, studying history perfumes, origins and cultural uses smells to me before forming the International school of Grasse perfume (the Grasse Institute of perfumery), where I now teach the history of perfumery.
Can you talk about your products?
I have two major influences: my travels through time and my encounters with historical figures. That is why I qualify willingly “Scented fragrance expert.” I feel somewhere one of the guarantors of our olfactory heritage, the heritage of perfume, like other institutions involved in this goal as Osmothèque of Versailles. I love to use my creations neroli, bergamot, orange, Bulgarian rose, geranium, frankincense, myrrh and Oud wood that fascinate me by what they give to me a soul at the perfume.
How is the creative process? From idea to manufacturing?
From the first idea to the implementation, the process of creating a perfume can last two years. The great perfume houses and by extension the fashion houses are almost always the initiators of the projects and are involved at every stage of the development of the product as a whole (that is to say, the fragrance, the bottle and packaging). Outside the houses Chanel, Hermes and Patou who count their own nose housing, the creation of the fragrance and manufacture of perfume concentrate are provided by the manufacturers of aromatic such as Givaudan, Firmenich and IFF. These three companies provide, on their own, three-quarters of the sector’s creations, which has more than 1,500 launches per year.
The houses such as Jo Malone, Aqua Di Parma, or Guerlain have understood this customer demand to be different then they offer this service to individuals of “customized”. For our customers, the first step is to discover all the olfactory territory that will create the greatest emotional resonance for them. Together in an intimate setting, we set the architecture of your olfactory temple, then we will create that essence unique and personal soul. As a fashion accessory or clothing that makes you stylish or strengthens your attractiveness, it becomes your signature scent and a source of sensory emulation.
How would you describe the brand Atelier Maître Parfumeur ?
Today I created and launched the fragrance of this brand , but I see it as a participatory brand since we are more residents perfumers in the workshop. The constraint is imposed that no launches as fragrances that bring added emotional value and meaning to the client. We prefer natural if the nature and the law allows us.
How did the name of your brand?
We have not integrated Grandes Ecoles , and I think it is often the founding act of a luxury brand . It takes the name of a place, of a creator ; for us it is just the two by the collective name and location.
What differentiates Atelier Maitre Parfumeur other perfume brands?
Within the Atelier Maitre Parfumeur, we create half measure to make the personal creation accessible to all and tailored to individuals and businesses. Our added value lies in our ability to create and manufacture AZ fragrance candle or a few hundred pieces, limiting financial issues for TPE.
Do you have a favorite perfume or iconic?
Opium pour Homme by Yves Saint Laurent. This is a skin for gasoline man of extraordinary sensuality, I like his strong character brought by the nobility oriental woods such as Atlas cedar but that hides a deep tenderness with his bourbon vanilla. It sparkles and glows with its fresh oriental note with spicy tones of Galangal and Sichuan pepper. It recognizes the incomparable touch of the perfumer Jacques Cavallier. In a word, addictive, when I breathe it, it takes me to another world, I travel. Jacques thank you to you!
What motivates you most as a perfumer?
I am pleased to see a return of the beautiful fragrance that is emerging in today’s landscape. In a globalized and standardized market, we could have the impression that with a plethora of new launches, the notion of quality is lost with fragrances that were similar in the marketing effect a consumer trend. But there in France, Europe and the United Arab Emirates a real hedonist culture deeply rooted perfume. Consumers buy differently, and mostly they are buying better … They want meaning from which the success of specialized outlets such as Place Vendome Belgium, Campo di marzo 70 in Rome and Paris Jovoy or our Atelier Maître Parfumeur in Paris that Haute Parfumerie commercialize products handpicked. Haute Parfumerie gradually takes the place it deserves in the world of luxury. I am pleased to participate in this return.
What is your favorite dessert?
I understand this issue since between the world of perfumery and pastry , it is only a step . On the occasion of the holiday season , the Parisian tearoom Angelina worked on a log that reinterprets the scent of Eau d’ Hadrien , famous fragrance house Annick Goutal for example.
I love opera ideally the icing should be slightly crunchy , chewy cookie, ganache a little firm and silky cream butter. He must not be too sweet, its coffee aroma between subtle with the taste of chocolate and vanilla edge . Some creative confectioners are added touches of citrus with orange.
If the Atelier Maitre Parfumeur was an art, what would it be and why?
Well I think it would be sculpture, this art is to design and produce forms in volume, in relief, in the round, in high relief, bas-relief, by size, by molding, welding or assembly from materials such as stone, wood, earth, metal or any other material. The term ” sculpture ” comes etymologically from the Latin ” sculpere ” which means ” cut ” or ” remove pieces at a stone.”
To me, this illustrates perfectly the work of the perfumer : assemble materials , smooth, erase a facet or highlight an essential oil or an olfactory synthetic material.
Finally , a quote or a story you want to share ?
During the first Gulf War, during a stay in the Sinai desert , where I served for the United Nations , I met nomads who threw into the fire a kind of wood powder and dried plants to perfume through the smoke. I found this incredible historic gesture but that is the etymological origin of the word perfume comes from ‘ perfumare ‘ ( smoke ) . This smell was unusual but so captivating , immersing myself in this tale of the forgotten past and gestures of the first perfumers of humanity.