The choice of this label, which activates an avalanche of results on Google but never the one that we look for, is not completely owed probably not at random.

“To be invisible on the Internet, it is the dream!” said Demna Gvasalia, indicated as spokesman of this collective mode which has the selfies and “personal branding” in horror.

Two years ago, nobody knew this claw, mixture of recycled secondhand clothes (are needed two vintage pants to create a jeans) and of pieces which confuse the issue of the male – feminine: bomber and trench coat enters spirit motorcyclist and codes army, suddenly shaken by a brightness of fuchsia stitch. Unsheathes it casual can also be sulfurous. Around Demna Gvasalia in the collective, two stylists crossed as him by Maison Martin Margiela, his brother who takes care of the sales management and a trainee ” who makes a little of everything “. At 36 years old, Demna spent four years to study the fashion to the Academy of Antwerp, four years to work for Maison Martin Margiela and almost three years at Louis Vuitton, where he observed Marc Jacobs, ” of a crazy creativity “, then Nicolas Ghesquière, ” an ultimate perfectionist « .

In March, 2015, Vêtements was a part of finalists of the prize LVMH for the young fashion designers. Six months later, Demna was announced to succeed Alexander Wang in the artistic direction of Balenciaga. Over there, he did not content itself with the feminine ready-to-wear clothing. He presented the first male parade of the history of the brand. A very talented art director who allowed Balenciaga to introduce a new breath, just like Vêtements which appears as revelation of its time, the one who gives birth to the “normcore” and ignites for the recollections of these 90s having seen emerging the “antifashion”.




Estelle Varillon